Climbing Pieter Both
A boulder balanced on the summit of the island's second mountain — and the only Mauritian ascent that genuinely requires guiding.
Can you climb Pieter Both on your own?
Two very different outings need separating, something most articles blur. The shoulder, the lower part up to the ledge beneath the summit, is a free hike: demanding and steep, but within reach of a fit walker. The head — the famous balancing boulder — is another matter: it is climbed on metal rungs sealed into the basalt, with ropes and a harness. That is no longer hiking but equipped climbing, and it is done only with a guide who supplies the gear.
Guided outings run in very small groups, often two people maximum, for around 100 dollars per person. Allow 4 to 5 hours round trip for the whole thing.
The route
The start is above Crève Cœur, north of Port Louis. The trail attacks the slope directly, through dense vegetation that hides the objective for a long while. There is no waymarking at all: paths cross and fade, which is reason enough not to set off blind.
You emerge onto the shoulder after a solid effort, with Port Louis and the bay opening below. Many hikers stop there, and it already makes a complete outing.
Above begins the part that made the mountain's reputation. The head is climbed via an equipped face, with moves where you are frankly out over the void. Arriving on top is a rare sensation in Mauritius: you stand on the very rock visible from the whole region, the Moka range on one side and the north coast on the other.
Mauritian legend holds that the boulder is a shepherd turned to stone for revealing the fairies' secret. Once up there, the story gains a certain weight.
Access and guiding
The start is at Crève Cœur. We do not publish GPS coordinates for this hike: the approach uses private tracks and the points recorded in mapping databases are unreliable — far better to follow the meeting point your guide gives you.
The lower section is free and open. For the head, book ahead with an equipped operator: the outing cannot be improvised on the spot, and gear is not available for hire at the foot of the mountain.
When to go
Austral winter (May to November) without exception, and in dry weather. On an equipped face, wet rock and wind change everything: guides cancel without hesitation, which is good news. Start early, as the heat on the climb is punishing.
⚠️ The costly mistake: confusing the shoulder with the summit when reading published times. Many listings advertise "3 hours, moderate" — that is the walk to the shoulder. The head requires gear and a guide: turning up at the foot of the face in hiking kit will not get you up it.
Around the hike
Pieter Both is Le Pouce's direct neighbour on the same Moka range: many visitors do both on one trip, starting with Le Pouce to gauge themselves. Port Louis, its market and waterfront are a quarter of an hour away.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a guide for Pieter Both?
For the summit head, yes, it is essential: the face is fitted with sealed rungs and climbed with ropes and a harness provided by the guide. The walk up to the shoulder remains free.
How high is Pieter Both?
820 metres, making it the second summit of Mauritius after Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire (828 m).
How much does a guided Pieter Both climb cost?
Around 100 dollars per person, in a very small group, with safety equipment provided. Booking is done in advance.